LACE-UP STOCKINGS
The stockings pictured here are anklet socks, but you can make these stockings any length you like. The lacy fabric is suitable for full length stockings. I adapted the lace pattern from an old Mon Tricot Stitch Dictionary, so that it can be knitted in the round, and designed a Turkish sock. I used Lana Grossa Meileweit Cotton Fun variegated yarn and 2 pairs of size 2 (3.0) Suzanne ebony circular needles.
Here is the same sock, slightly longer in the ankle, knitted in Lorna's 'Shepherd Sock' wool, color chocolate.
This method uses two circular needles of the same size. Half the sock’s stitches will be on each needle and the sock will be worked in the round on these two needles. When working the stitches on the left-hand end of ‘Needle A’ you will be knitting them with the right hand end of the same needle (‘Needle A.’) After completing one half row, that is, after completing all the stitches on Needle A, you’ll slide the stitches to the other end of the needle, draw your yarn snugly across to ‘Needle B’ and again knit a half-row (all the stitches) on Needle B, using the two ends of Needle B only. Again, slide the stitches, pull yarn over to the Needle A side, and proceed, working your way around the ‘circle’ thus formed.
Begin by creating a toe using whatever method you feel most comfortable with. If you’ve never made a toe-up sock before, SEE BELOW FOR INSTRUCTIONS
The toe is complete when the sock spans the knuckles of your feet snugly, not loosely. Now we can choose which side of the sock will be the upper, and begin our pattern. We must have a multiple of nine stitches plus two on each needle. For my sock on size 2 (3.0) needles that came to 27 + 2 = 29 stitches on the top to accommodate the pattern. When I was ready to begin the pattern I only had 28 stitches on each needle, so I increased a stitch near the edge to make 29, (and, of course I added a stitch on the bottom, too, so that I would have the same number of stitches, 29, on each needle).
Work the pattern until reaching the highest point of the instep and the beginning of the heel of your foot (see illustration below), and bind off the bottom panel of the foot to make an opening for your 'heel gusset.' Continue in pattern on the upper side, and when you come round to where you would be knitting on the other needle, cast on to your empty needle (let's call it 'needle B') a multiple of three (in my case 27 stitches). Coming round to the upper, purl two together, continue in pattern and end with purl two together. At this point I had 27 stitches on front and back needles, and began each row with purl 1, proceeding to knit the pattern as usual, and then ending with purl one at the end of the row. So, instead of beginning and ending each needle’s half-row with purl two, we are now using purl one. We will be working the pattern on both of our needles now, and the ‘purl-one’ at the end of each row, will make a purl two rib when the sock is finished. The sock will be thoroughly symmetrical in terms of the pattern. 
Be careful not to twist you stitches when you come round to knit the newly cast-on stitches.
LACE PATTERN (for 27 stitches plus 2, but you can adapt it for any multiple of 3, plus 2):
row 1: rep 3x: *P2, SL 1, K1, psso, mk1, K3, m1, k2tog* - end P2
row 2: “ “ : *P2, K7* - end P2
row 3: “ “ : *P2, K2, mk 1, SL 1, k2tog, psso, mk 1, K2* - end P2
row 4: repeat row 2
reminder: after heel gusset area has been worked, and the pattern now goes all the way around the ankle, the only change to be made is to change the first and last P2 to P1
HEEL
Pick up the original number of stitches plus 2-4 more on each side of the heel opening, depending on the breadth of your heel. In my case, I picked up 30 stitches. Knit two rows of stockinette stitch in the round. On the next row, decrease 1 stitch at each end of the needle, (just before and just after the last and first stitch). In other words, you are not decreasing at the very end of the row, but at least one stitch in from the end. Continue decreasing in this way every other row until you have five to seven stitches on your needle, then graft or otherwise tie off the stitches and weave in the ends.
TOE-UP:
If you’ve never made a toe-up sock before, you can begin as follows: cast on twelve stitches, then divide the twelve stitches equally between your two needles. Using two circular needles, that works out in the following way: with one circular needle, called needle A, knit-cast on 12 stitches. First row: Knit the first stitch as you normally would on needle A, from left hand needle to right-hand needle. Then take your other set of circular needles, needle B, and knit the next stitch onto one end of needle B. The next stitch is again knitting onto needle A, and so forth alternating, until you have six stitches on needle A and 6 stitches on needle B. I hold the A and B needles closely together in my right hand as I divide the stitches. Row 2, knit around these twelve stitches, increasing 1 stitch at the beginning and end of each needle, at a distance of one or two stitches from the end of the needle. This will result in an increase of four stitches PER ROW (both needles). Knitting every row will result in stockinette stitch for the toe of the sock. Continue to increase in this manner every other row until the toe of the sock fits SNUGLY over the span of the knuckles of your foot. Begin Pattern.
